Dining in Naples: Dorona is spectacularly inventive, modern

It's easy to be dazzled by Dorona.

Those reclaimed wood walls. The splashy wall hangings. The darling chandeliers that looked like they're made from colorful glass antiques.

And on the menu, that charred octopus prepared with smoky black truffle, and that delicate ricotta cheesecake with a swirl of saffron sauce — saffron!

Whether I was seated indoors for a late afternoon lunch, or on a rather busy evening on a rather noisy outdoor patio, I found myself marveling at the extensive menus (there's a menu devoted to steak alone, with 17 or so different offerings). And, it turned out, the hustle and bustle of a packed patio canceled out as soon as I split open a soft-boiled egg, spilling its ooey yolk all over a carbonara-style spaghettini.

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